You gotta start somewhere, so the saying goes. Even Kelly Slater, the reigning GOAT of professional surfing, didn’t come hurtling out of the womb and straight onto the podium. And unfortunately, ...

I won’t sugarcoat it: most surfers don’t want you to pick up their sport. Surfers can be territorial, aggressive jerks—especially to newbies. Though I’m not excusing that behavior, the instinct is ...

In my mid-20s, I moved to Ocean Beach, Southern California, specifically to learn how to surf. I spent the first six months of my tenure unemployed, so I was in the water every day, launching myself ...

“This one. This one. Start paddling!” shouted Jamie O’Brien as a set wave came through on Oahu’s South Shore. O’Brien is more famous on the island’s North Shore, as one of the greatest Pipeline ...